Category: Tipo

Identidad y nacionalismo. Una mirada sobre la búsqueda de identidad y nuevas tendencias en el diseño de modas

Hablar de la situación en la que el mundo se encuentra actualmente resulta contradictorio. Por un lado, es innegable la masificación que produce la globalización, por tanto, la unidad existente entre los distintos países y las nuevas formas de comunicación y acceso a la información posibilitan la conexión instantánea a nivel global; mientras que por otro lado hay una enorme necesidad de diferenciación y, en este sentido, la vuelta a las raíces y la exploración dentro del territorio de origen han dado un nuevo sentido a la moda y le ha otorgado un nuevo rol al diseñador de indumentaria.

AutoraMaría Florencia Bertuzzi y Daniela Escobar
Año2020
TipoArtículo Académico
PaísArgentina
EditorialCuadernos del Centro de Estudios en Diseño y Comunicación
DescargaURL
e-ISSN1668-0227
APABertuzzi, M. F., & Escobar, D. (2020). Identidad y nacionalismo. Una mirada sobre la búsqueda de identidad y nuevas tendencias en el diseño de modas. Cuadernos del Centro de Estudios en Diseño y Comunicación. Ensayos, (78), 115-127.

El Arte de la Indumentaria y la Moda en México, 1940–2015, Palacio de Cultura Banamex-Palacio de Iturbide, Mexico City, May 4–September 25, 2016

This is a review of the exhibition El Arte de la Indumentaria y Moda en Mexico 1940–2015, which was the first survey of Mexican twentieth century fashion, on view at the Banamex-Palacio de Iturbide, Mexico City from May 4 to September 25, 2016. Examining the curators’ argument that the various cultures that have intermingled in Mexico have left a mark in its fashion and ethnic dress, this review explores the tension between tradition and modernity in the understanding of culture and dress in Mexico.

AutoraTanya Meléndez Escalante
Año2018
TipoArtículo Académico
PaísMéxico
EditorialFashion Theory Journal
DescargaURL
DOI10.1080/1362704X.2018.1499195
APAMeléndez Escalante, T. (2020). El Arte de la Indumentaria y la Moda en México, 1940–2015, Palacio de Cultura Banamex-Palacio de Iturbide, Mexico City, May 4–September 25, 2016. Fashion Theory, 24(2), 265-271.

Fashioning Brazil: Globalization and the Representation of Brazilian Dress in National Geographic since 1988

Photographs since National Geographic’s centenary edition in September 1988 encapsulate an “aesthetics of garbage,” and have traced the beginnings of a different view of global encounters between the United States and Brazil, driven by the forces of globalization. These images have resisted the processes of objectification, appropriation and stereotyping frequently associated with the magazine’s distinctive, rectangular yellow border. This is because they have provided evidence of a fluid and various population, which has selected and experimented with preferred elements of American and European dress, and used it to fashion their own, distinctly Brazilian, identities.

AutoraElizabeth Kutesko
Año2016
TipoArtículo Académico
PaísBrasil
EditorialFashion Theory Journal
DescargaURL
DOI10.1080/1362704X.2016.1133547
APAKutesko, E. (2016). Fashioning Brazil: Globalization and the Representation of Brazilian Dress in National Geographic since 1988. Fashion Theory, 20(2), 181-207.

Design for Dissent: Political Participation and Social Activism in the Colombian Fashion Industry

Studying a number of collections, images, and social media communications of major fashion brands of international renown, smaller, local designers, and celebrated fashionistas, this paper studies the ways in which members of the Colombian fashion industry have taken to political participation and social activism within the current political climate. It provides insight on how fashion, among other cultural processes, becomes political in times of uncertainty and transition.

AutoraLaura Beltran-Rubio
Año2019
TipoArtículo Académico
PaísColombia
EditorialFashion Theory Journal
DescargaURL
DOI10.1080/1362704X.2019.1657259
APABeltran-Rubio, L. (2019). Design for Dissent: Political Participation and Social Activism in the Colombian Fashion Industry. Fashion Theory, 23(6), 655-678.

Colombia For Export: Johanna Ortiz, Pepa Pombo and the re-creation of the cultural identity for a global fashion market

In this paper, I study the ways in which Johanna Ortiz and Pepa Pombo, two important Colombian designers that are widely known both in the country and abroad, selling their products through high-end international fashion retailers, use traditional elements of the national identity to create a new image of Colombia, as the basis of their creations for export. I argue that, in de-constructing the stereotypes that associate these elements with the violent and corrupt ideas of armed conflict and drug cartels, and reinterpreting them in their own design aesthetic, they re-construct the Colombian nation and re-create the national identity under a positive light.

AutoraLaura Beltran-Rubio
Año2017
TipoArtículo Académico
PaísColombia
EditorialCuadernos del Centro de Estudios en Diseño y Comunicación
DescargaURL
e-ISSN1668-0227
APARubio, L. B. (2017). Colombia For Export: Johanna Ortiz, Pepa Pombo and the re-creation of the cultural identity for a global fashion market. Cuadernos del Centro de Estudios en Diseño y Comunicación. Ensayos, (64), 239-253.

Searching for the Oasis in Life : Fashion and the Question of Female Emancipation in Late Nineteenth-Century Argentina

Indeed, fashion historians have traditionally presented women of the nineteenth century as frail beings, slavishly bending to the whims of a male-dominated (some might go as far as to say sadistic) fashion system. While there has been mention of a few notable women who escaped the period’s imposed moral and social expectations, there has been a tendency to represent the draped female body as the immobilized victim of an oppressive fashion system.

AutoraRegina Root
Año2004
TipoArtículo Académico
PaísArgentina
EditorialThe Americas
DescargaURL
DOI10.1353/tam.2004.0028
APARoot, R. A. (2004). Searching for the Oasis in Life: Fashion and the Question of Female Emancipation in Late Nineteenth-Century Argentina. The Americas, 60(3), 363-390.

Moda y trabajo: la expresión sociocultural de un “saber hacer”

El presente artículo tiene como principal objetivo el análisis de la moda desde un ángulo poco estudiado: el “saber hacer”, como parte de un conocimiento aplicado al trabajo. Bajo ese enfoque, la moda es una forma cultural que orienta ciertas prácticas de vestir a través del consumo, pero además su proyección da origen a la conformación de particulares modos de trabajar dentro de ambientes laborales signados por la confección industrial de ropa.

AutoraAbel Pérez Ruiz
Año2011
TipoArtículo Académico
PaísMéxico
EditorialRevista Nueva Antropología
DescargaURL
ISSN0185-0636
APAPérez Ruiz, A. (2011). Moda y trabajo: la expresión sociocultural de un” saber hacer”. Nueva Antropología, 24(75), 43-70.

Research Notes: Ethical Fashion—The View from Argentina

With the rise of fast fashion in the early twenty-first century, the number of collections produced and consumed has increased dramatically. This led to new ways of thinking about how garments get made. The “race to the bottom” often meant that producers turned to sweatshops to keep retail prices competitive and both designers and consumers sought more transparency. While recent scholarship continues to highlight the ethical dimensions of contemporary design practices, especially as it relates to the design of emotionally durable goods or slow fashion, the diversity of Latin American responses remains neglected.

AutoraRegina Root
Año2015
TipoArtículo Académico
PaísArgentina
EditorialFashion Theory Journal
DescargaURL
DOI10.2752/175174114X14042383562227
APARoot, R. A. (2014). Ethical Fashion—The View from Argentina. Fashion Theory, 18(5), 633-638.

SJO: Mapping Fashion and Masculinities in the Costa Rican Capital

This article is a descriptive mapping of the Costa Rican capital, San José. I discuss the different ecologies of men’s fashion as produced by the city, emphasizing how the physical landscape of the city informs, and perhaps defines, the sartorial choices of the men that inhabit it. The resulting range of performed masculinities reflects the relationships established between men and their near environment, primarily their clothes and the spaces they occupy in San José.

AutoraJosé Blanco F.
Año2015
TipoArtículo Académico
PaísCosta Rica
EditorialFashion Theory Journal
DescargaURL
DOI10.2752/175174114X14042383562146
APAJosé, B. F. (2014). SJO: Mapping Fashion and Masculinities in the Costa Rican Capital. Fashion Theory, 18(5), 569-600.

The Blue Jean Generation: Youth, Gender, and Sexuality in Buenos Aires, 1958-1975

This article reconstructs the life story of a commodity, the blue jean, in 1960s and 1970s Buenos Aires. It analyzes how the blue jean was commercialized, who wore it, and the meanings they attributed to the jeans. In addition, it explores the cultural representations of the blue jean and analyzes the debates it sparked in the public arena, which revolved around the “Americanization” of Argentina’s culture; the shifting understandings of gender and sexuality; and the changing youth identities the blue jean allegedly embodied.

AutoraValeria Manzano
Año2009
TipoArtículo Académico
PaísArgentina
EditorialJournal of Social History
DescargaURL
DOI10.1353/jsh/42.3.657
APAManzano, V. (2009). The blue jean generation: youth, gender, and sexuality in Buenos Aires, 1958-1975. Journal of social history, 42(3), 657-676